The Latest

Heel hook, on Panic Button (V4-5?), Boulder Rock.
(Terrifying, slopey mantle to finish - I’ll try it next time with more spotters!)
Apr 20, 2014 / 30 notes

Heel hook, on Panic Button (V4-5?), Boulder Rock.

(Terrifying, slopey mantle to finish - I’ll try it next time with more spotters!)

High Heel (by Flipthecamera)
Apr 20, 2014 / 17 notes

High Heel (by Flipthecamera)

But sometimes when I find the key and climb deep into myself where the images of fate lie aslumber in the dark mirror, I need only bend over that dark mirror to behold my own image, now completely resembling him, my brother, my master.
Hermann Hesse, from Demian, translated by Michael Roloff and Michael Lebeck (thanks, maartejn)
Apr 20, 2014 / 70 notes
house-under-a-rock:

Logan Barber on L’Escamarla 7c+, 5.13a, Siurana, Spain

Gotta reblog a local boy!
Apr 15, 2014 / 50 notes

house-under-a-rock:

Logan Barber on L’Escamarla 7c+, 5.13a, Siurana, Spain

Gotta reblog a local boy!

Apr 12, 2014 / 15 notes

Oh no she’s on her high horse again

So, I work in a climbing gym, and today I had to do a full sprint from counter to lead wall because a belayer had somehow switched his brake hand from the tail end to the lead end, above his atc. That is, there was no brake hand, and both hands instead held the rope above the device. His climber was perhaps two clips from the lower-off draws. He started to self-correct around the same time I grabbed the tail end of the rope, perhaps a full 10 seconds from the moment I saw the error.

I called him out on it - fiercely - and he got more than a little defensive, and claimed that he could hold his climber’s body weight anyway.

I’ll just let that sink in.

He then offered to prove it to me (she was still up there, hanging at the clip, a little bewildered).

I said no.

Maybe, after all, the need for a belay device is a conspiracy of the industry, and in fact our bare hands are all we need. But I’d rather, for now, we all played it safe.

There’s no need to let go of the tail end of the rope (he did it inadvertently), and if you have ever done so, you screwed up.

Admit it, and belay better.

A genuine Western Australian classic, Kalbarri Gold (26). Climber: Monique Forestier
Apr 8, 2014 / 29 notes

A genuine Western Australian classic, Kalbarri Gold (26). Climber: Monique Forestier

Sometimes when earth’s gods are homesick they visit in the still of the night the peaks where once they dwelt, and weep softly as they try to play in the olden way on remembered slopes

H.P. Lovecraft

(via tatteredbanners)

(via buffleheadcabin)

Apr 8, 2014 / 142 notes
Bat hang on Pata Negra (by Jonas Wiklund)
Apr 8, 2014 / 207 notes

Bat hang on Pata Negra (by Jonas Wiklund)

nallehukkataival:

This hold makes it possible! l’Alchemiste, unrepeated since it’s first ascent in 1997. Possibly the hardest boulder in Fontainebleau at the time, two of the crux holds were broken off with a hammer only days after the first ascent. After all the controversy that followed, it remains a mythical project to this day to re-open this line. Yesterday I managed to find a sequence and did every move, so there is no more speculating whether it’s possible or not. Now I’m hoping to get some colder days to get back on it! #bouldering #climbing #island (at Fontainebleau)
Mar 18, 2014 / 20 notes

nallehukkataival:

This hold makes it possible! l’Alchemiste, unrepeated since it’s first ascent in 1997. Possibly the hardest boulder in Fontainebleau at the time, two of the crux holds were broken off with a hammer only days after the first ascent. After all the controversy that followed, it remains a mythical project to this day to re-open this line.
Yesterday I managed to find a sequence and did every move, so there is no more speculating whether it’s possible or not. Now I’m hoping to get some colder days to get back on it! #bouldering #climbing #island (at Fontainebleau)

Claire Youdale bouldering on Arran.
Mar 4, 2014 / 103 notes

Claire Youdale bouldering on Arran.

Monique Forestier, on Tiger Cat (33), in the Blue Mountains. Photo by Simon Carter.
Mar 4, 2014 / 22 notes

Monique Forestier, on Tiger Cat (33), in the Blue Mountains. Photo by Simon Carter.

There remains the inexplicable mass of rock.
Kafka really was a climber.
Mar 4, 2014 / 1,200 notes

There remains the inexplicable mass of rock.

Kafka really was a climber.

(via kafkaesque-world)